Collectors and Appraisers are Taking Note
Vintage luxury is no longer a niche market—it’s a global phenomenon. From the glittering streets of Paris to the pages of top fashion magazines, the demand for pre-owned designer fashion and accessories has exploded in recent years. Whether for sustainability, nostalgia, investment, or the simple thrill of the hunt, collectors and fashion lovers alike are turning their attention to the past. As an avid collector and wearer of vintage couture, I’ve personally experienced firsthand the magnetism of these timeless treasures—and as an appraiser, I’ve seen how important it is to accurately understand their value for estate tax, insurance coverage, and equitable distribution.
Paris: A Vintage Collector’s Dream
During my time living in Paris, it was impossible not to notice how deeply embedded vintage fashion is in the city’s style culture. It’s not just the charming boutiques of the Marais or the flea markets of Saint-Ouen—major department stores like Le Bon Marché, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette dedicate entire floors to vintage luxury and resale. These curated spaces offer everything from classic Chanel tweed jackets to rare Hermès handbags, all authenticated, preserved, and often styled right alongside contemporary pieces. This normalization of vintage in mainstream retail speaks volumes about its desirability, but also about its staying power and cross-generational appeal.
Weddings & Vintage Heirlooms
One of the most romantic collecting trends we’ve seen recently is the use of vintage couture in weddings. Brides are seeking out vintage Dior, Givenchy, and Valentino gowns—not only for their beauty, but also for the unique story they bring. Vintage accessories, like a Chanel minaudiere (clutch bags) or Cartier brooch, often double as the “something old” and the statement piece of the event. These items are also increasingly passed down through families or purchased with the intention of becoming future heirlooms. In these instances, accurate appraisal is essential, particularly when items are insured before the big day or included in a prenuptial agreement or future estate.
Collecting Couture: A Passion for the Pieces That Fit
My love for vintage couture is rooted in an appreciation for craftsmanship, history, and storytelling through design. But as any collector knows, couture wasn’t always created with inclusivity in mind. Many of the most coveted pieces were made for sample-size bodies, making it a challenge to find garments that fit a range of sizes. Because of this, my collection is deeply personal—I don’t acquire just anything with a designer label, I collect what fits me and makes me feel powerful when I wear it. I covet pieces that align with my taste and lifestyle, but more importantly, that I can actually enjoy wearing. This blend of passion and practicality means my collection is not only beautiful but lived in—proof that vintage couture can be both wearable and worthy of appraisal.
Designer Resale as a Market Indicator
The resale values of Chanel, Dior, Hermès, and Gucci often reflect not only brand heritage but also market trends and cultural moments. For example, vintage Karl Lagerfeld-era Chanel continues to climb in value, particularly runway pieces from the 1980s and 1990s. Dior under John Galliano has also seen renewed interest, especially among Gen Z collectors. A quality appraisal of these items considers not only material condition and provenance, but also these broader market shifts and collector sentiment. These are essential insights for clients facing divorce settlements, estate tax filings, or insurance claims.
Why a Proper Appraisal Matters
Whether it’s a vintage Dior wedding gown worn by three generations or a well-loved Chanel flap bag that’s followed you across continents, these items deserve thoughtful, accurate valuation. As a certified appraiser with a deep appreciation for fashion history and a collector’s eye, I understand the emotional and financial significance these pieces carry. My firm specializes in appraisals for estate planning, divorce, charitable donation, and insurance, ensuring that every client receives a thorough and defensible valuation, tailored to the purpose at hand.
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